Learning Journal for BA(Hons) Design Practice
By Hani Batrisyia (Domain: Fashion)
textile studies
Week 1
Introduction to Textiles
What are textiles?
Materials made from fibers, thin threads or filaments that are either natural, synthetic, or a combination of both.
As part of our introductory lesson to what textiles are, we are also made aware of the different ways that fibers are made into fabric, such as by being:
- Woven
- Non-woven
- Knitted
Recommended to read for further understanding
What are woven fabrics?
Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Woven fabrics can be made of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, or a mixture of both, such as cotton and polyester. Woven fabrics are used for clothing, garments, decorations, furniture, carpets and other uses.
What are the qualities of woven fabrics?
Woven fabrics only stretch diagonally on the bias directions (between the warp and weft directions), unless the threads used are elastic. Woven fabric cloth usually frays at the edges, unless techniques are used to counter it, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming. Different companies use textiles differently to create products.
Fabrics that are woven do not stretch as easily as knitted fabrics, which can make them advantageous for many uses.
Closely woven fabric is more durable and keeps it shape better. Woven fabric is constructed with two threads, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal threads are called the weft and the vertical threads are called the warp. The warp and weft can be woven together in different variations of the three basic weaves; plain, twill and satin. These varieties can be shaped into dresses, tops, coats, etc.
List of woven fabrics:
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Aida: made for cross stitch embroidery
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Madras Muslin net: an extra weft thread is inserted to an open gauze cloth to create a unique look
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Aertex: a fine cloth used for sophisticated and expensive clothing
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Leno: similar to the aertex fabric
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Organza/Organdie: usually used for lawn fabrics and acid is part of its construction process
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Mousseline: a very sheer material that needs other fabrics to be seen
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Velvet: deep pile that is very soft and luxurious originally made from silk but other fibers are used today
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Tissue: used for sarees and other women’s outfits. usually paired with gold or silver thread and is a fine fabric
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Taffeta: smooth, crisp and sheer. Used for fine women’s clothing and made from silk or rayon
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Sheeting: a fabric that is reserved for bedding mostly, made from cotton fibers
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Poplin: made from cotton and comes with a nice rib to it
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Muslin: made from cotton mostly and is used for everyday clothing
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Mulmul: it is a heavy weight cotton material used a lot in sarees
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Lawn: made from cotton or linen and often used as lining
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Khadi: made from cotton and is usually hand spun and hand woven. Known for its simplicity
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Kashmir Silk: plain woven and is embroidered or printed, the shawls are usually given a twill weave
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Georgette: a plain weave that produces a very sheer lightweight fabric, can have a rough texture
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Gabardine: a close woven material with a twill influence, very durable
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Flannel: given a plain or twill weave style, soft and a bit bulky
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Drill: used for pants, knickers and uniforms usually found in solid colors and a twill weave
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Denim: a cotton twill material and can be made with stretch yarn
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Crepe: a crinkled and puckered look made from silk and synthetic fibers. Twisted yarns are used to make this fabric
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Corduroy: cut pile material and filled with ribs
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Chintz: plain woven cotton that is a medium weight fabric A glazed finish is often added
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Chiffon: sheer, lightweight and made from hand twisted yarns
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Cheese cloth: an open weave with a light weight, very fragile material
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Casement: medium weight and woven with a closely packed thick warp thread. Usually used for curtains, table linen and so on
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Cambric: a lightweight plain woven material but a little stiff
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Buckram: a stiff fabric but lightweight and given a loose weave style, lots of filelrs included
What are the disadvantages of woven fabrics?
One of the most basic disadvantages of woven materials is their cost. Because of the distinct features, the production costs go up and so do the retail costs. You may pay more for certain woven fabrics over other styles.
Of course, all of these disadvantages depend on several factors like fibers used, what weave style was used, and so on. For example, laundry issues occur more with silk and other fine fibers than it does with cotton or linen but this is one disadvantage as your laundry time becomes more complicated.
The lack of stretch in most woven products means you may not be as comfortable as you would with wearing a knit skirt and other clothing items. Some woven fabrics can be very fragile and do not last a long time.
What are woven fabrics used for?
This is one of the advantages of working with woven fabrics. Not only are they more stable to sew with there are a lot of uses for these materials. First, you can use them for all sorts of different clothing items. From pants to dresses to jackets and more.
Then they are good materials to use for clothing for different seasons. On top of that, they work well in bedding and make comforters or quilts far more comfortable than most other methods of creating fabrics.
Next, they work well in formal and semi-formal clothing helping you and your mate look more elegant and stylish. Cooking or baking is another practical use for these materials. You can protect your hands and tables with simple items like gloves and hot pads.
Woven materials are the go-to fabrics when you have a lot of heavy-duty tasks to perform.
What are non-woven fabrics?
Nonwoven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fibre (short) and long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt, which are neither woven nor knitted. Some non-woven materials lack sufficient strength unless densified or reinforced by a backing. In recent years, non-wovens have become an alternative to polyurethane foam.
Non-woven fabric is a type of textile material that is not woven or knitted in the traditional sense. It is produced by directly bonding or interlocking fibers together using various techniques, such as mechanical, chemical, or heat processes. This results in a fabric that is made of fibers held in place through these methods, rather than being woven together using a traditional weaving process.
Characteristics of non-woven fabrics include:
1. Versatility: Non-woven fabrics can be made from various types of fibers, such as natural fibers like cotton or synthetic fibers like polyester. This allows for a wide range of applications and uses.
2. Strength and Durability: Non-woven fabrics can be engineered to have specific strength and durability properties, making them suitable for various applications where strength is important.
3. Absorbency: Depending on the fibers used and the manufacturing process, non-woven fabrics can exhibit different levels of absorbency. This makes them useful for products like wipes, medical dressings, and more.
4. Breathability: Non-woven fabrics can be designed to be breathable, which makes them suitable for products like disposable diapers and medical garments.
5. Cost-Effectiveness: Non-woven fabrics can often be produced at a lower cost compared to traditional woven fabrics due to the simpler manufacturing processes involved.
6. Customizability: Non-woven fabrics can be engineered to have specific properties such as softness, stretch, texture, and more, depending on the intended application.
Overall, non-woven fabrics offer a diverse range of properties and applications, making them an important part of the textile industry and various other sectors.
Nonwoven fabrics are engineered fabrics that may be single-use, have a limited life, or be very durable. Nonwoven fabrics provide specific functions such as absorbency, liquid repellence, resilience, stretch, softness, strength, flame retardancy, washability, cushioning, thermal insulation, acoustic insulation, filtration, use as a bacterial barrier and sterility.
These properties are often combined to create fabrics suited for specific jobs, while achieving a good balance between product use-life and cost. They can mimic the appearance, texture and strength of a woven fabric and can be as bulky as the thickest paddings. In combination with other materials they provide a spectrum of products with diverse properties, and are used alone or as components of apparel, home furnishings, health care, engineering, industrial and consumer goods.
Types of non-woven fabrics
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Wet-laid nonwovens
Wet-laid nonwovens are made by a mechanical process called wet laying. It is similar to a paper-making technique with different raw materials. Fibers are formed into a slurry which is transported to a mesh forming mechanism to lay in a wet state to form a cloth. It is normally followed by adhesive bonding. Felt and felted fabrics are made this way.
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Spun laid nonwovens
Spun laid nonwovens are also called spunbond nonwovens. Fibers or polymer slices are spun by spinnerets into endless filaments. These filaments are cooled and stretched by air and are deposited as random web on a moving sieve belt. This conveyor belt carries the web to the bonding zone to bond by a thermal, mechanical, or chemical process. Interfacing material is a spun bonded nonwoven.
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Stitch bond nonwovens
A stitch bond non woven is made on a weaving machine. The web is held in place on a weaving machine and is bonded with chain-stitch seams. The fabric will have clear stitching patterns on one side or both sides. The stitch bonding process gives a flatter and softer texture to the web. Scrim in batting is stitch bonded.
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Solvent bond nonwovens
A web made of acrylic fibers and polyester fibers is treated with a controlled amount of solvent. It softens the fiber surfaces and thus causes bonding.
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Thermal bond nonwovens
Thermal bond nonwovens are made of thermoplastic fibers or thermostatic powders like polyester, polypropylene, nylon, etc. There are four kinds of thermal bonding. Air bonding where heated air is applied to the web placed on a conveyor belt. Impingement bonding, where the web is placed in an oven and hot air impinges to the web surface from nozzles. The calendar bonding, where the web is passed between heated rollers and ultrasonic bonding, where a device in which ultrasonic frequency produces a vibrational motion and the bonding takes place by means of energy conversion.
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Chemical bond nonwovens
Chemical bond nonwovens are made by applying a binder (resin or latex) to the surface of the web. Resin bonded batting is an example. There are four types of chemical bonding. Print bonding, spray bonding, saturation, and foam bonding. Print bonding is done by gravure roll printing and screen printing. In spray bonding latex is sprayed on the web placed on a conveyor belt. In saturation, the web is directly dipped in a latex tank and later dried in a drier. Foam bonding gives resiliency and a softer feel to the fabric.
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Hydro entangled nonwovens
Hydraulic nonwovens are made by the impact force of high-pressure water jets onto the web surface on a fast-moving conveyor belt. The amount of pressure applied on the web decides the bonding quality.
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Carded nonwovens
This is a charactization of non woven material based on how the fibers are laid when the material is made. A carding machine is used to comb the fibers into a web and the fibers are aligned in the machine direction. This creates a very strong non woven material. The other process is air-laid. Non-woven Web materials are made in both these ways.
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Nonwoven composite fabrics
Multilayer nonwovens (Multiple fibre composite nonwovens) are nonwoven fabrics with multiple layers of different types of fibers with varying functionalities. ie. Each layer of the fabric will provide the fabric with specific qualities like water repellency, fire retardancy, etc.
Fashion Supply Chain
What is a supply chain?
A supply chain is a coordinated network of companies and business services involved in sourcing, manufacturing, shipping, storing, and selling products. Supply chain activities include designing the product, sourcing raw materials and parts, evaluating and selecting suppliers, demand planning, manufacturing, shipping (including transportation and fleet management), warehousing, and managing customer orders. Today’s supply chains often span the globe, extending into trade activities such as customs, tariffs, and border crossings.
What is a fashion supply chain?
It refers to the complex network of businesses and services that bring clothing and accessories (shoes, belts, purses, jewelry, and more) from concept to customer. Stakeholders in the fashion supply chain include growers of silk, cotton, and linen; textile manufacturers; distributors; retailers; third-party logistics providers; and more. A successful fashion supply chain has transparent communications among all parties at each stage. Communications are important to reduce lead times, improve quality, and ensure timely delivery to retailers and customers. A strong fashion supply chain helps reduce production, inventory, and logistics costs while increasing customer satisfaction.
KEY POINTS
Fashion supply chains start with raw materials and end with the final sale of clothing and accessories.
Supply chains are complicated, involving sophisticated manufacturing plants, various forms of transportation, skilled labor, and myriad regulations worldwide.
Because they’re so complex, fashion supply chains typically rely on software automation to plan, order, and track goods and shipments at every stage.
Efficient supply chain management can boost fashion company profit margins by several percentage points.
Why is the fashion supply chain important?
It's important for the fashion industry because it ensures that brands and retailers can produce and deliver the right garments, accessories, and other products at the right time to meet ever-changing customer demands in a highly competitive market. A well-managed supply chain results in faster turnarounds, lower costs, and an improved customer experience, helping fashion producers and retailers maximize their profits. Companies rely heavily on technology to manage every step of their supply chains to ensure those results.
How does the fashion supply chain work?
The fashion supply chain begins with creating designs by a fashion designer. These designs then go to either a textile sourcing company or a garment manufacturing facility that turns fabrics into pieces of clothing. Once manufactured, the apparel is inspected for quality control. If the garments pass that step, they’re shipped to online distributors and logistics warehouses or directly to brick-and-mortar retail stores, ready for customers to buy. Ultimately, the efficient flow of information and materials within this complex network is what drives the fashion industry forward.
The Supply Chain Process:
Fashion industry supply chain processes can vary depending on market conditions, customer demand, and the retailer’s approach. For example, some retailers want to ensure that their products and underlying raw materials are sourced from suppliers that adhere to fair labor practices and have strict environmental standards. In general, though, a typical supply chain process looks like the following:
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Raw materials acquisition. This is the first step in the supply chain process and involves obtaining the necessary raw materials to make a product. This step could include sourcing directly from cotton, silk, flax, and hemp farmers or from third-party suppliers, often locally. The main focus of this step is to get quality materials at the lowest cost, often factoring in fair labor and environmental considerations
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Design and production planning. In this step, engineers develop a production plan for the product based on customer demand and needs. The plan considers material availability, inventory levels, cost-effectiveness, and product quality.
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Manufacturing/assembly. During this step, raw materials turn into finished products ready for shipment or distribution to retailers or direct to customers. Manufacturers must carefully manage their production levels to meet customer demand while avoiding making too much excess product that they can’t sell quickly.
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Distribution. Once the products are manufactured, they’re distributed to retail stores, sometimes via wholesalers (more on that below), or directly to customers. This step might involve packaging and shipping over various transportation networks, such as roadways, railroads, waterways, and air freight carriers.
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Storage and warehousing. Companies store their inventory holdings close to the point of sale so they can quickly and easily distribute them when needed. This process ensures that orders are filled promptly, without delays or stockouts that might prompt customers to go to competing retailers (online or in-store).
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Logistics and supply chain optimization. This process involves reducing costs and increasing efficiency across all supply chain stages. It can involve switching to lower-cost suppliers, using smarter planning strategies like just-in-time inventory, or finding the shortest delivery routes with the lowest fuel costs.
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Customer service and delivery. Customer service teams deal directly with customers to answer their questions about deliveries, products, and more to ensure they’re satisfied with their purchases and assist them with returns.
Benefits of Fashion Supply Chain Management
Fashion supply chain management involves collecting data at every step of the process and analyzing that data to make improvements. For example, if a shipping lane closes because of a political dispute, or if a key supplier goes out of business, supply chain managers want this information immediately to work around the disruptions quickly. The benefits of supply chain management include:
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Improved visibility and control over the entire supply chain. Supply chain managers are responsible for complex processes, from acquiring raw materials to retail delivery. The more information and visibility they have into this complicated process, the better they can identify bottlenecks and change plans to fix other potential problems.
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Increased efficiency in warehouse operations. Information such as time to unload (comparing the use of robots to people), staffing levels, and wages can help companies improve warehouse efficiency and reduce costs.
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Reduced errors, delays, and costs. This is where automation plays a key role. Automated production lines, robotics, AI-based data analytics, and track-and-trace technologies all help reduce the number of manual handoffs in a supply chain. Fewer manual steps mean less potential for costly human error and mistakes.
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Streamlined processes and improved quality of service to customers. The more efficient the fashion supply chain, the faster retailers can deliver the in-demand final products to customers and the happier they’ll be with the end result.
Identifying Fabric
What is a Selvage Edge and How Do You Find It?
A piece of fabric cut from a shop will have two selvages – one at either end of the width of fabric. The selvage is a ½-1 inch section of threads at the edge of the fabric that are tightly woven in order to keep them stable and prevent them from fraying.
Depending on the type of fabric, the selvage may not always look the same – it may be an obvious white strip with printed information on it (generally the manufacturer or brand name, designer, etc.), a more discrete thick band of threads with tiny holes (which were used when the fabric was made) or even a simple tufted edge.
What is Fabric Grain?
Most fabrics (like quilting fabric and textured cotton wovens) are made by weaving together threads in a perpendicular fashion. The grain refers to the direction that those threads travel, which can be one of two ways:
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Lengthwise Grain (Warp): The lengthwise grains, or warp, are the long threads that run parallel to the selvage for the entire length of the fabric yardage. This direction is also sometimes referred to as “straight grain”.
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Crosswise Grain (Weft): The crosswise grain, or weft, are the short threads that run perpendicular to the selvage (or from selvage to selvage).
What is bias?
This refers to cutting the fabric at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise or crosswise grains.
How Do You Find the Grain Line?
On a piece of fabric cut from a shop, one can typically locate the selvage ends and know right away which direction is which. But a stretch test coule be done if you have a piece of fabric that’s missing those obvious selvage edges.
The lengthwise, crosswise and bias grains stretch differently. The lengthwise grain stretches the least, the crosswise grain stretches a bit more, and the fabric stretches the most along the bias.
Week 1 Reflection:
As someone with no prior knowledge of fashion other than knowing how to style myself, delving into this world of fabrics, and understanding concepts like fabric grain and selvage has been an eye-opening journey. This exploration has not only expanded my knowledge but has also deepened my appreciation for the intricate processes that contribute to the creation of garments.
Learning about textiles has been like unraveling a rich tapestry of possibilities. From the myriad of fibers like cotton, silk, and wool to the diverse weaves and knits, each fabric tells a unique story. I've come to realize that the choice of fabric is a crucial element in fashion design, influencing not only the aesthetic appeal but also the functionality and comfort of the final garment. The interplay of textures, colours, and patterns has become a fascinating puzzle to solve, allowing me to express creativity through material choices.
Understanding the fashion supply chain was enlightening as it sheds light on the complexities and challenges that underpin the industry. From sourcing raw materials to manufacturing, distribution, and retail, every step involves a network of processes and stakeholders. This holistic perspective has made me more conscious of the environmental and ethical implications of fashion production. It has sparked a curiosity in exploring sustainable practices and alternative supply chain models, challenging me to think beyond the glamour of the runway and consider the broader impact of my future career in the industry.
Identifying fabric grains has been a hands-on learning experience, requiring a keen eye and attention to detail. Initially, the terms did not register itself in my head, but as I practiced and handled different fabrics, the significance of grain direction in pattern cutting and garment construction became evident.
As I continue on this journey of learning more about the ins and outs of fashion, eventually I will be more attuned to the multifaceted nature of the fashion industry, from the artistic aspects of design to the ethical considerations in sourcing and production. Additionally, I am excited to integrate these insights into my creative process, fostering a mindful approach to fashion that values both aesthetics and responsibility.
Week 2
Natural Fibers & Fabric Swatches (I)
What are natural fibers?
They're hairlike raw material directly obtainable from an animal, vegetable, or mineral source and convertible into nonwoven fabrics such as felt or paper or, after spinning into yarns, into woven cloth. A natural fibre may be further defined as an agglomeration of cells in which the diameter is negligible in comparison with the length. Although nature abounds in fibrous materials, especially cellulosic types such as cotton, wood, grains, and straw, only a small number can be used for textile products or other industrial purposes.
Apart from economic considerations, the usefulness of a fibre for commercial purposes is determined by such properties as length, strength, pliability, elasticity, abrasion resistance, absorbency, and various surface properties. Most textile fibres are slender, flexible, and relatively strong. They are elastic in that they stretch when put under tension and then partially or completely return to their original length when the tension is removed.
10 different types of natural fibers include:
1. Cotton
2. Flax
3. Hemp
4. Remie
5. Jute
6. Abaca
7. Bamboo
8. Pineapple
9. Wool
10. Silk
1. Cotton
It's almost pure cellulose, with softness and breathability that have made it the world's most popular natural fibre. Fibre length varies from 10 to 65 mm, and diameter from 11 to 22 microns. It absorbs moisture readily, which makes cotton clothes comfortable in hot weather, while high tensile strength in soap solutions means they are easy to wash. Cotton is the world's most widely used natural fibre and still the undisputed "king" of the global textiles industry.
Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber worldwide and one of the cheapest to produce. And it's the second most used fiber for garment production behind polyester globally.
They have been used for over 7,000 years to make clothes since it offers numerous advantages for fabric production. About half of all textiles contain natural cotton fibers.
It has a low price because it's mass-produced globally. It's the most widespread profitable non-food crop.
Characteristics of cotton:
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Easy to clean
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Soft
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Durable
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Lightweight
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Breathable
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Absorbent
It's a natural material, bio-based, biodegradable, compostable, and recyclable.
Dying cotton fabrics is also effortless, fast, and in a variety of long-lasting colors. Cotton fabrics regulate body temperature very well and are perfect in hot weather to keep you cool and fresh.
Cotton harvesting begins at the cotton plant bolls. Cotton is then processed and combed into yarn. But the cotton plant requires tons of water, pesticides, and fertilizers to grow.
Regular cotton production isn't ecological, ethical, or sustainable. It drains resources, generates waste, involves harmful substances that ruin biodiversity and soil fertility, and endanger human health.
Many intensive farming operations genetically modify cotton fibers to increase their productivity and resist pests.
2. Flax
Flax is the most strongest among the natural cellulosic fibers. It is the first plant stem (bast) fiber used by man for making textiles, particularly in the West. Flax fiber is extracted from the skin of the stem of the flax plant. In its inner bark, there grows long, thickwalled cells of which flax fiber strands are composed. Flax is manufactured into linen yarn for thread or woven fabrics. So it is also called linen. It is also one of the oldest fibers, which was used more than 30,000 years before. Linen cloth made from flax was used to wrap the mummies in the early Egyptian tombs.
Properties of Flax Fiber:
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Soft
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Lustrous
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Flexible
The bundles of fiber have the appearance of blonde hair. It is used to make most of the expensive cloth which is most comfort to wear. Flax fiber absorbs humidity well and is a very breathable fiber.
Uses of Flax Fiber:
Flax is two to three times stronger than cotton fiber, but less elastic. The best grades are used to make linen fabrics such as damasks, sheeting and lace. Coarser grades are used for the manufacturing of rope and twine, and historically for canvas and webbing equipment. Flax is also used as a raw material in the high-quality paper industry for the use of printed banknotes and rolling paper for tea bags and cigarette paper manufacture. It is also hypo-allergenic and so an excellent choice of fiber for those with allergies.
Common uses of flax:
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Clothing apparel
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Sewing thread
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Surgical thread
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Sanitary napkins
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Decorative fabrics
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Table wear
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Bed linen
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Wall coverings
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Suiting
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Kitchen towels
3. Hemp
Hemp fabric is a type of textile that is made using fibers from the stalks of the Cannabis sativa plant. This plant has been recognized as a source of extraordinarily tensile and durable textile fibers for millennia, but the psychoactive qualities of Cannabis sativa have recently made it harder for farmers to produce this immensely beneficial crop.
Hemp fiber has been used extensively throughout history, with production climaxing soon after being introduced to the New World. For centuries, items ranging from rope, to fabrics, to industrial materials were made from hemp fiber. Hemp was also commonly used to make sail canvas. The word "canvas" is derived from the word cannabis.
Pure hemp has a texture similar to linen. Because of its versatility for use in a variety of products, today hemp is used in a number of consumer goods, including clothing, shoes, accessories, dog collars, and home wares. For clothing, in some instances, hemp is mixed with lyocell.
4. Ramie
Ramie, aka Boehmeria nivea, and also called China grass, is a fibre-yielding plant of the nettle family (Urticaceae) and its bast fibre, native to China. Green ramie, or rhea (Boehmeria nivea, variety tenacissima) may have originated in Malaysia and is also a fibre source. Ramie is a renewable plant fibre that's derived from a plant in the nettle family. It is biodegradable, making it sustainable compared to synthetic, oil-based fabrics. The fibres are slubby which gives Ramie an appearance similar to linen. Ramie is reportedly "twice as strong" as Linen, one of the strongest natural fibres and even stronger when wet.
The perennial plant produces many stalks, each growing from 1.9 to 2.4 metres (3 to 8 feet) high. The leaves, growing on the upper portion of the stalk, are somewhat heart-shaped with serrated edges. The leaves have bright green upper sides and undersides that are covered with white hairs; those of the green ramie variety are green on both sides. Greenish white flowers form drooping clusters growing from the angles between leafstalks and stems.
Advantages of Ramie:
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Natural resistance to stains
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Resistant to shrinkage
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Withstands high water temperatures during laundering
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Comfortable and breathable to wear, making it suitable for warm and humid conditions
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Fully natural, sustainable & regenerative material
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An ancient fibre that has been used in clothing for thousands of years
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Holds its shape well
5. Jute
Jute, or Hindi pat, also called allyott are either of two species of Corchorus plants—C. capsularis, or white jute, and C. olitorius, including both tossa and daisee varieties—belonging to the hibiscus, or mallow, family (Malvaceae), and their fibre. The latter is a bast fibre; i.e., it is obtained from the inner bast tissue of the bark of the plant’s stem. Jute fibre’s primary use is in fabrics for packaging a wide range of agricultural and industrial commodities that require bags, sacks, packs, and wrappings. Wherever bulky, strong fabrics and twines resistant to stretching are required, jute is widely used because of its low cost.
The jute plant, which probably originated on the Indian subcontinent, is an herbaceous annual that grows to an average of 10 to 12 feet (3 to 3.6 metres) in height, with a cylindrical stalk about as thick as a finger. The two species grown for jute fibre are similar and differ only in the shape of their seed pods, growth habit, and fibre characteristics. Most varieties grow best in well-drained, sandy loam and require warm, humid climates with an average monthly rainfall of at least 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) during the growing season. The plant’s light green leaves are 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) long, about 2 inches (5 cm) wide, have serrated edges, and taper to a point. The plant bears small yellow flowers.
Jute is a relatively cheap and versatile fiber and has a wide variety of uses in cordage and cloth. It is commonly used to make burlap sacks. The jute plant also has some culinary uses, which are generally focused on the leaves. Due to its durability and biodegradability, jute matting is used as a temporary solution to prevent flood erosion. Researchers have also investigated the possibility of using jute and glucose to build aeroplane panels.
6. Abaca
Abaca, (Musa textilis), plant of the family Musaceae, and its fibre, which is second in importance among the leaf fibre group. Abaca fibre, unlike most other leaf fibres, is obtained from the plant leaf stalks (petioles). Although sometimes known as Manila hemp, Cebu hemp, or Davao hemp, the abaca plant is not related to true hemp.
The plant, native to the Philippines, achieved importance as a source of cordage fibre in the 19th century. In 1925 the Dutch began cultivating it in Sumatra, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture established plantings in Central America. A small commercial operation was started in British North Borneo (now Sabah, part of Malaysia) in 1930. During World War II, with Philippine abaca no longer available to the Allies, American production greatly increased.
Abaca fibre is valued for its exceptional strength, flexibility, buoyancy, and resistance to damage in salt water. These qualities make the fibre exceptionally suitable for marine cordage. Abaca is chiefly employed for ships’ ropes, hawsers, and cables and for fishing lines, hoisting and power-transmission ropes, well-drilling cables, and fishing nets. Some abaca is used in carpets, table mats, and paper. The plant’s inner fibres can be used without spinning to manufacture lightweight, strong fabrics, mainly used locally for garments, hats, and shoes.
7. Bamboo
Bamboo textile is any cloth, yarn or clothing made from bamboo fibres. While historically used only for structural elements, such as bustles and the ribs of corsets, in recent years different technologies have been developed that allow bamboo fibre to be used for a wide range of textile and fashion applications. Examples include clothing such as shirt tops, pants, and socks for adults and children, as well as bedding such as sheets and pillow covers. Bamboo yarn can also be blended with other textile fibres, such as hemp or spandex. Bamboo is an alternative to plastic that is renewable and can be replenished at a fast rate.
Modern clothing labeled as being made from bamboo is usually viscose rayon, a fiber made by dissolving the cellulose in the bamboo, and then extruding it to form fibres. This process removes the natural characteristics of bamboo fibre, rendering it identical to rayon from other cellulose sources.
Bamboo fabric is highly breathable, and it is also stretchier than cotton. It's easy to weave this fabric into fabrics with high thread counts, and the resulting textiles are often thinner than their cotton counterparts while remaining similar or greater in tensility. The fabric may be used in sheets, blankets, towels, hand towels, or a number of other household textiles. Due to its softness and durability, however, this fabric is most commonly used in garments. Underwear made from this fabric is particularly popular, and socks, T-shirts, and other garments that make direct contact with the skin are commonly made with this fabric.
8. Pineapple
Even though pineapple fibers have a delicate appearance, they have high versatility and durability. They have great tensile strength, making them resistant to tearing even after prolonged use. Moreover, they have excellent blending capacity, allowing for further pineapple fiber innovation by combining this fiber with other materials like silk and cotton. Also, the breathable and lightweight characteristics of pineapple fiber ensure maximum comfort when used in clothing.
Furthermore, pineapple fiber exhibits an outstanding affinity for dyes, making it ideal for DIY projects, crafts, accessories, and clothing that involve the dyeing process. Additionally, this eco-friendly fabric can display vibrant colors and diverse designs, providing a medium for artistic exploration. The texture of pineapple fiber can be utilized to create woven fabrics with sturdy or delicate textures.
With the discussion of pina fiber properties and characteristics, this plant-based material can be used for a wide range of goods. One of the most popular applications is the utilization of pineapple fibers in the textile industry, particularly for clothing lines. Its versatile yet delicate nature makes it easy to blend with other textile materials, such as silk, to enhance the quality of garments. These combinations are commonly tailored into scarves, ties, blouses, dresses, and other attires. In some cases, they even become part of the fabric mix for sportswear, thanks to their breathable, lightweight, and moisture-wicking properties.
Its unique characteristics make it appreciated for the luxury and intricate embroidery. Therefore, several cultures, including Filipinos, make use of pineapple fiber for their traditional clothing. This eco-friendly textile fiber is also involved in the manufacturing of home furnishings and accessories, such as pillowcases, curtains, and table linens. The fiber adds a unique, classic, and elegant artistic touch to the items that incorporate it. Also, its biodegradable nature makes it a popular sustainable packaging alternative, aiming to reduce the use of synthetic plastic materials. This aligns with the increasing consumer awareness of plastic waste, especially among the eco-conscious individuals.
To top it all off, pineapple fiber also holds great potential as a raw material for composites and non-woven fabrics in the construction and automotive industries. The pineapple fiber sustainability and versatility allow it to be incorporated into a wide range of products, promoting sustainable practices and offering unique, eco-friendly alternatives to conventional materials.
9. Wool
Wool is possibly the oldest fiber known to humans. It was one of the first fibers to be spun into yarn and woven into the fabric. Of the major apparel fibres, wool is the most reusable and recyclable fibre on the planet. The eco-credentials of wool are enhanced by its long service life and suitability to be recycled to new textiles for clothing, resilient upholstery or products that call on its natural resistance to fire and temperature extremes. Aside from premium next-to-skin apparel, wool can be used in industrial applications such as thermal and acoustic insulation or in pads to soak up oil spills.
At the disposal stage, natural fibres such as wool reduce the impact of the textile industry on pollution and landfill build-up. In warm, moist conditions such as in soil, wool biodegrades rapidly through the action of fungi and bacteria to essential elements (i.e. Nitrogen and Sulphur) for the growth of organisms as part of natural carbon and nutrient cycles.
Wool’s surface repels water. Since moisture does not remain on the surface, woollen fabrics tend to feel dry and comfortable even in damp weather. The inner core does absorb moisture – so much so that wool can absorb almost double its own weight in water and still feel reasonably dry. This absorbency also gives wool its natural resistance to wrinkles. The absorbed moisture also holds down static electricity. And because of the inner moisture, wool is naturally flame resistant.
Some of the characteristics of wool fibers include:
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Anti-static — because wool can absorb moisture vapour, it tends not to create static electricity, so it is less likely to cling uncomfortably to your body than other fabrics.
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Anti-wrinkle — at a microscopic level, each wool fibre is like a coiled spring that returns to its natural shape after being bent. This gives wool garments natural wrinkle resistance.
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Soft — Wool fibres are extremely fine, enabling them to bend and feel soft and gentle next to your skin.
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Warm and cool — in contrast to synthetics, wool is an active fibre that reacts to changes in body temperature. So it helps you stay warm when the weather is cold, and cool when the weather is hot.
10. Silk
Silk is a protein fiber made by silk worms and is the only natural fiber that is a filament fiber. The threads can be spun by caterpillars, spiders and mussels. Among the most relevant silk producers are the larvae of the silk moth. Conventional silk is produced as filaments, up to 0.5 km long, from secretions of the larvae of particular moths. Most silk is derived from the larvae of the moth, Bombyx mori, but some other silks come from the larvae of the Chinese Tussah moth (Antheraea pernyi) and the Indian Tussah moth.
Silk's fineness, high degree of luster, softness and superb drape enables silk to be converted into many beautiful types of fabrics, from delicate chiffons to heavy brocades. The fineness, regularity, strength and elasticity of silk make it suitable for fine screens for printing and parachute fabrics.
Silk’s good absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in warm weather and while active. Its low conductivity keeps warm air close to the skin during cold weather. It is often used for clothing such as shirts, blouses, formal dresses, high fashion clothes, negligees, pyjamas, robes, skirt suits, sun dresses and underwear.
Silk’s elegant, soft luster and beautiful drape makes it perfect for many furnishing applications. It is used for upholstery, wall coverings, window treatments (if blended with another fiber), rugs, bedding and wall hangings.
Fabric Swatches Part I
Fabric Swatch
Description
Fabric: Lawn
Fiber content: 100% cotton
Construction: Woven
Fabric width: 60 inch
Retail:
Fabric appearance: Printed, black and white
Touch: cool
Further Info
This lightweight, sheer fabric has a smooth surface. The fabric is loosely compacted so yarns remain separated from each other to allow light and air to flow through. Fine yarn size is a key point in producing this beautiful, airy cloth. Lawn is a favourite for hot-weather uses because of its lightweight, cooling capability. Seams can be sewn easily, though seam puckering can result if sewing tension is not monitored.
Fine cotton fibre in evenly twisted yarns is often used, creating a smooth surface; mercerization enhances lustre and strength. Alternatively, fine linen yarns create a slubbed surface and a stiffer, crisper hand than cotton, Finely spun polyester yarns result in a fabric similar to mercerized cotton but very drapable. Blended polyester/cotton or polyester/flax yarns are used for lower cost and enhancced wrinkle resistance.
Distinctive features:
- Lightweight, sheer fabric
- Soft hand
- If sheer, handkerchief linen will have a slightly lustrous surface
Strengths:
- Sheer and very lightweight
- Comfortable fabric to wear in hot weather
- Fabric holds up its shape in unfitted styles
- If using polyester blends, fabric will be more wrinkle-resistant than cotton or flax
Weaknesses:
- Weak fabric. Seams easily 'slip' (fabric pulls away at the seams, leaving one set of yarns, which are easily broken or torn).
- Not suitable for tight0fitting garments
- If using polyester fiber, fabric will pill and will not feel as cool when worn.
- If using cotton or flax fiber, fabrics will wrinkle easily.
Usual fiber content:
- Mercerized cotton fiber
- Linen yarns
- Spun polyester
- Blended polyester/cotton or polyester/flax
Fabric: Gingham
Fabric content: 100% cotton
Construction: Colour weave effect/plain weave
Fabric width: 44 inches
Retail: $20 per yard
Fabric appearance: Blue and white checkered
touch: smooth
Fabric Swatch
Description
Further Info
Check fabrics are usually two colors, and plaids are three or more colors with a more intricate use of color and spacing. Both types of images were originally created using dyed yarns and weaving them into fabrics to create the check or the plaid. However, the process of dyeing yarn first and then producing only woven fabric is slow and limiting. Today, checks and plaids can be produced as a printed image on any fabric, created using a crossdyed method, or continuing the traditional yarn-dyed method.
Traditional yarn-dyed fabric, including Madras plaids, which were developed long ago in India, are still produced in low-cost labor countries. However, due to the continuing issue of water contamination from the dyeing processes, more and more low-cost fabrics will use pigment-printed checks and plaids, which do not require slow production, intensive labor, and wastewater concerns. Yarn-dyed fabrics continue to be used in men’s dress shirts and high-quality women’s blouses and shirts. For low-cost fashion items, most suppliers have switched to pigment printing to create the check or plaid.
Distinctive features:
- Very noticeable and pleasing fabric image in a variety of colors
- Can be either a square or rectangular geometric image
Strengths:
- Great variety of design images
- Can use wide variety of fiber contents and yarns
- Flexibility in image production—woven in or printed
Weaknesses:
- May lose color, depending on how the fabric was produced
- Must match or balance check or plaid image
- Unbalanced (rectangle) plaid cannot be used in bias garments
Usual fiber content:
- All types of fiber in unlimited blends and variations
Fabric Swatch
Description
Fabric: Silk taffeta
Fabric content: 100% silk
Construction: Woven/plain weave
Fabric width: 46 inches
Retail: $25 per yard
Fabric appearance: lustrous
Touch: crisp, smooth
Further Info
Taffeta is one of the more recognized fabric names. The fabric has a characteristic rustling noise, sometimes called “schroop,” and a fine, cross-grain ribbed weave. The yarns are very tightly woven together, always using simple multifilament yarns. The hand is very crisp, making this fabric ideal for full skirts and dresses, and other formal occasion women’s clothing.
One of the visually appealing aspects of taffeta is the use of color in the yarns. Taffeta in iridescent colors, used in women’s formal dresses and outerwear, is especially popular. Iridescence is achieved by using different yarn colors in the warp and weft, similar to chambray. However, the bright multifilament yarns reflect light differently as the fabric’s angle to the light changes—as the fabric moves, its color changes. The fabric shown above is an example of iridescent coloring.
Distinctive features:
- Lustrous surface with fine, cross-grain ribbed texture
- Crisp hand, especially in nylon blends
- Characteristic noise or “rustle” when fabric moves
- Iridescent colors often used
Strengths:
- The crisp hand is ideal for full, exaggerated-silhouette designs
- The ribbed texture and lustrous, sometimes iridescent, color is highly valued for women’s formal apparel
- Can be calendered for more surface luster or have patterns embossed into the ribbed surface
- Excellent fabric for outerwear in polyester/nylon blends
Weaknesses:
- Noise or “rustle” of the fabric can be undesirable
- Limited use—difficult to use in tailored designs
- May wrinkle badly
Usual fiber content:
- Originally produced in silk fiber, polyester and nylon are now frequently used for more affordable, functional, easily maintained fabric
- Polyester microfiber yarns are often used in athletic or outdoor apparel; the characteristic “rustle” is much reduced, however
- Acetate can also be used
Week 2 Reflection:
The realization that natural fibers, such as cotton, silk, wool, and linen, are not just materials but living entities with unique properties has been eye-opening. Each fiber has its distinctive characteristics, from the softness of cotton to the luxurious sheen of silk, and from the warmth of wool to the breathability of linen. Learning about the origins, cultivation, and processing of these fibers has unveiled a world of craftsmanship that spans centuries, connecting the present to the rich tapestry of history and tradition. Understanding the sustainable aspects of natural fibers has also been a pivotal part of this learning journey, especially in this day and age where we must be eco-conscious. Recognizing the biodegradability and renewable nature of these materials has deepened my appreciation for their ecological impact. Thus, learning of the sustainable aspects of natural fibers prompts me to reflect on the importance of making responsible choices as a future contributor to this field.
Receiving our first batch of fabric swatches of lawn, gingham, and taffeta was like the stepping stones of this journey into being future figure in fashion in my hands. Lawn, with its lightweight and finely woven texture, exuded a delicate and airy quality, making it ideal for summer garments. Gingham, characterized by its checkered pattern, conveyed a timeless and versatile aesthetic, suitable for both casual and formal wear. Taffeta, with its crisp and smooth surface, hinted at a luxurious touch, suggesting its potential for elegant and structured designs.
Moreover, this knowledge has illuminated the significance of fabric selection in achieving design goals. The choice of fabric goes beyond aesthetics, as it influences the drape, structure, and overall feel of the garment. Learning to discern and appreciate the various fabrics that exist equips me with a valuable skill set that I intend to carry forward in my fashion studies and career.
Week 3
Man-made Fibers & Fabric Swatches Part 2
What are man-made fibers?
They are fibre whose chemical composition, structure, and properties are significantly modified during the manufacturing process.
Man-made fibres are spun and woven into a huge number of consumer and industrial products, including garments such as shirts, scarves, and hosiery; home furnishings such as upholstery, carpets, and drapes; and industrial parts such as tire cord, flame-proof linings, and drive belts. The chemical compounds from which man-made fibres are produced are known as polymers, a class of compounds characterized by long, chainlike molecules of great size and molecular weight. Many of the polymers that constitute man-made fibres are the same as or similar to compounds that make up plastics, rubbers, adhesives, and surface coatings.
Man-made fibres are to be distinguished from natural fibres such as silk, cotton, and wool. Natural fibres also consist of polymers (in this case, biologically produced compounds such as cellulose and protein), but they emerge from the textile manufacturing process in a relatively unaltered state. Some man-made fibres, too, are derived from naturally occurring polymers. For instance, rayon and acetate, two of the first man-made fibres ever to be produced, are made of the same cellulose polymers that make up cotton, hemp, flax, and the structural fibres of wood.
Another group of man-made fibres (and by far the larger group) is the synthetic fibres. Synthetic fibres are made of polymers that do not occur naturally but instead are produced entirely in the chemical plant or laboratory, almost always from by-products of petroleum or natural gas.
What is a synthetic fiber?
Synthetic fabrics have become integral to our daily lives. These manufactured fabrics are made from synthetic fibres derived from petroleum instead of natural sources like plants or animals. Synthetic fabrics provide certain advantages over natural fabrics - they are durable, affordable, easy to maintain and can be engineered to have desired properties. Synthetic fibres are manufactured fibres that are produced through chemical synthesis. The first synthetic fibre was nylon, invented in the 1930s. Some common synthetic fibres include nylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon, spandex etc.
Synthetic fibres have the following characteristics:
1. Strength - Synthetic fabrics are very strong compared to most natural fabrics.
2. Durability - Synthetics can withstand wear and tear and have a long lifespan.
3. Wrinkle resistance - These fabrics are engineered to avoid wrinkles.
4. Weather resistance - Synthetic fabrics are unaffected by mildew or mould.
5. Colorfastness - The colours remain bright for a long time.
6. Easy to clean - Many synthetic fabrics can be machine washed.
THE COMMON TYPES OF SYNTHETIC FABRICS
1. POLYESTER
Polyester is the most used synthetic fibre, making up about 90% of all synthetic fibres produced worldwide. Features excellent wrinkle resistance and shape retention. Commonly used in clothing, home furnishings, and industrial applications. First developed in the 1940s, it is highly durable and made from petroleum.
Polyester fabrics have the following properties:
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Wrinkle-resistant, quick-drying and lightweight
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Provides high strength and durability
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Retains its shape well
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Resistant to most chemicals
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Low moisture absorbency
hosiery - stocking
lycra is spandex and also elastane
sustainable options - bio based spandex (must research on our own)
silk costs higher than acetate
acetate is not a strong fiber on its own, so it is often blended with others
2. NYLON
Nylon was the first synthetic fibre produced in the 1930s. It is made from petroleum and is exceptionally strong and stretchy. Used to make women's stockings and lingerie, swimwear, parachutes, ropes, and more. Resists damage from insects, fungi, animals, water, mould, and chemicals; it is strong, smooth and flexible.
Key properties and uses include:
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High strength and abrasion resistance, so useful for sportswear and socks
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Dries quickly and absorbs little moisture
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Resilient and elastic
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Resistant to damage from oils, greases and many solvents
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Used in women's hosiery and lingerie, swimwear, parachutes, ropes, and more
3. ACRYLIC
Acrylic fabric is made from acrylonitrile and has wool-like properties. It is lightweight, soft, and warm, used to produce sweaters, tracksuits, blankets, and carpets. Acrylic fibre resembles the characteristics of wool.
It has the following properties:
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Provides insulation and can mimic the feel and texture of natural fibres.
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It is Lightweight, soft, and warm
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Machine washable and dries rapidly
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Resistant to moths, oils and chemicals
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Retains heat and provides weather resistance
4. SPANDEX
It was developed in the 1950s; spandex or elastane provides incredible stretch and recovery.
It is blended with other fabrics to impart stretch. Spandex provides freedom of movement and comfort.
Key traits:
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Spandex contains long polymer chains that give it impressive elasticity and strength.
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Can be blended with other fibres.
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Lightweight fabric with very high elasticity
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Retains its shape and remains tight-fitting after the stretch
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Resistant to oils, grease, lotions and detergents
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Commonly used in activewear, swimwear, leggings and more
5. RAYON
Rayon is a regenerated cellulosic fibre made from wood pulp or cotton waste. It imitates silk, wool and cotton fabrics. Used in clothing, home furnishings, and industrial purposes. Lower priced than silk and can be produced in a variety of textures. Absorbs moisture well.
Properties and uses:
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Possesses a gentle, velvety sensation
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Exhibits excellent absorption, breathability, and wear comfort
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Drapes well and easily dyed in various colours
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Used in clothing like blouses, dresses, jackets etc.
6. OLEFIN FABRIC
Olefin is a synthetic fabric made from polypropylene and polyethene fibres.
Its characteristics are:
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Extremely strong, rugged and abrasion resistant
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Resistant to staining, fading, mildew and chemicals
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Dries quickly and easily washes clean
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Used for sportswear, ropes, furniture, carpets and more
7. MICROFIBER
Microfiber fabric is made with microfiber yarns that are even finer than silk fibres.
It has the following qualities:
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Extremely soft, smooth, lightweight and breathable
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Durable and wrinkle resistant
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Effectively traps dirt and moisture particles
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Commonly used for sportswear, towels, linings and more
8. FLEECE
Fleece constitutes a manufactured insulating textile produced using polyethene terephthalate (PET).
Key attributes are:
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Lightweight, breathable and quick-drying
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Soft, insulating and pill-resistant surface
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Durable, machine washable and retains its shape
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Used for jackets, sweatshirts, blankets, outdoor gear etc.
Fabric Swatches Part II
Fabric Swatch
Description
Fabric: Acrylic chiffon
Fiber content: Acrylic
Construction: Plain-weave
Fabric width: 60 inches
Retail: $12 per meter
Fabric appearance: Snakeskin print with rough texture, flowy
Further Info
This beautiful, sheer fabric is one of the most recognized of all fabrics. Chiffon is very lightweight, and often used as an outside layer for a multilayered evening or bridal gown. A square weave, always using multifilament yarns, chiffon is loosely woven to achieve its sheer, see-through appearance. It is most often used in formal evening dresses and blouses. However, chiffon is also used in lingerie, nightgown and robe sets, and undergarments. Chiffon is often designed into full silhouettes but is also selected for simple bias-cut dresses, with a lining underslip.
Distinctive features:
- Lightweight, sheer fabric
- Soft hand
- Lustrous—as always, a multifilament yarn is used
Strengths:
- Sheer and very lightweight
- Drapable and soft
- If using polyester fiber, fabric will be more wrinkle-resistant than silk fiber
Weaknesses:
- Weak fabric. Seams easily “slip” (fabric pulls away at the seams, leaving one set of yarns, which are easily broken or torn)
- Not suitable for tight-fitting garments.
Usual fiber content:
- 100 percent silk
- 100 percent polyester
- 100 percent rayon.
Fabric Swatch
Description
Fabric: tricot knit
Fiber content: Acrylic, nylon, and acetate (very little, below 10%)
Construction: Warp knit
Fabric width: 72 inches
Retail: $16 per yard
Fabric appearance: stretchable, smooth
Further Info
Tricot knits are among the most popular fabrics used in apparel. Most designers will not recognize a tricot fabric, but they are important in interlinings, linings, lingerie, underwear, swimwear, and athletic apparel. Designers looking for an inexpensive, smooth-textured fabric that provides strength without weight will select tricot. Always using inexpensive multifilament yarn for fabric production, tricot fabrics provide strength in the straight-grain direction and expansion in the cross-grain direction, and are very lightweight. Polyester fiber content is most commonly used.
Tricot fabrics, like nearly all knits, are soft and somewhat resilient. The drape is generally good, although yarn size will affect the quality of the drape. The bigger the yarn, the less drape there will be. Tricot fabrics are often selected for pajamas, robes, nightgowns, inexpensive fashion tops, and dresses. Tricot is easily printed, especially when using heat-transfer printing. Tricot is especially important to the fast-fashion women’s designer because the fabric is inexpensive, readily available, and easily transformed by dyeing, printing, and pleating.
Distinctive features:
- Smooth surface with slightly sheer appearance
- Very rigid in the straight-grain direction
- Expands in cross-grain direction
Strengths:
- Durable fabric
- Easily available
- Stretchable fabric, easy to fit
- Good drape
- Resilient, although the fiber content will help resilience further
Weaknesses:
- Fabric is difficult to sew after cutting due to slightly rolled edges
- A ballpoint needle must be used
- The fabric surface snags easily
Usual fiber content:
- 100 percent polyester
- 100 percent nylon
Fabric Swatch
Description
Fabric: Sateen
Fiber content:
Construction: Woven, plain-weave
Fabric width: 50 inches
Retail: $17.50 per meter
Fabric appearance: Rough, stretchy, rose-print
Further Info
Sateen fabrics always use spun yarns. The lustrous, smooth surface of cotton-fiber sateen is highly recognizable. The more highly twisted spun yarns will create a more lustrous surface than loosely twisted yarns. Top-weight sateens, though available, often are costly due to the small yarn size. The majority of sateen fabrics are medium- to bottom-weight and are used for a softer, yet tailored silhouette. Sateen fabric, with its natural luster, is often used for tailored suiting or pants when cotton fiber is used, for a slightly more formal appearance.
Distinctive features:
- Lustrous, smooth surface, although short fibers are noticeable on the surface
- The hand is soft, although stiffer in the cross-grain direction
- Shows seam design detail well
Strengths:
- The luster is very durable
- Holds its shape easily
- A good fabric for fitted designs
Weaknesses:
- If polyester or a polyester blend is used, pilling shows easily on the smooth, lustrous surface
- Wrinkles are very noticeable
- Floating yarns are subject to snagging, which will reduce the durability of the fabric
Usual fiber content:
- Any spun fiber yarn can be used
- All cotton. If mercerized cotton is used, the luster and hand are enhanced
- Polyester and cotton blends are frequently used to lower cost and improve wrinkle resistance
Week 3 Reflection:
Week 4
Spotlight and People's Park Complex Site Visit
Week 4 Reflection:
Week 5
Yarn, Weave, and Non-woven Knitted Fabrics
What is Yarn?
Yarn is a length of fibres. That’s the simplest way to explain it. It is a continuous length of fibres which are interlocked, and it’s used to produce fabrics, as well as in crocheting, knitting, embroidery and ropemaking. Yarn can be split into two different categories, the thread that is used for embroidery or in sewing machines, as well as yarn (commonly known as balls-of-wool) used in crafts such as knitting or crocheting, are long lengths that are bought as yarns. The alternative would be a yarn which is then knitted or woven into a fabric. The textile is then bought as fabric, in lengths, rather than the yarn itself being purchased separately. This second description is the one that we will explore further in this post.
What is Yarn Made From?
Yarn can be made from such a variety of different fibres. This includes both natural and synthetic fibres. The most common plant fibre is cotton, however, you can also use other natural fibres such as bamboo. Alongside cotton, the synthetic polyester fibre makes up the two most commonly used fibres. Animal fibres are also often used, such as wool, harvested from sheep, as well as cashmere (harvested from goats) Angora (from rabbits) and silk (from insect larvae).
What is the Difference Between Spun and Filament Yarn?
Spun yarn is made by twisting staple fibres together in either an S or Z twist, to make a single thread. The process of twisting the fibres together into yarn is called spinning and it was one of the first processed to be industrialised. Spun yarns can contain a single type of fibre, or you can spin various types of fibre together to give you a blend.
Filament yarn is made up of filament fibres which are either twisted together or simply grouped together. It can either be composed of one filament, which is called a monofilament, or it could be made of more than one, in which case it would be known as a multifilament. This can be as few as two or three filament fibres, or even up to 50, or more.
Spun Yarn
Filament Yarn
What is an S or Z Twist?
When spinning, your yarn is composted of twisted strands of fibre. These are known as plies when grouped. The strands are twisted together – or plied – in the opposite direction to make a thicker thread. Whether you have an S-twist or a Z-twist is dependant on the final twist. For those which appear to have the threads going up and to the left, it would be considered an S-twist, whereas those which go up and to the right, are z-twist yarns. For single-ply, the final twist will always be the same as the original twist.
What is the Difference Between Staple Fibres and Filament Fibres?
A staple fibre is one that is considered of discrete length. These are short fibres which are spun together to create a long, spun yarn. Staple length is the term which relates to the length of the group of fibres. Depending on the origin of the fibres this can vary greatly, so the staple length would be an average. The staple length makes a vast difference in the complete yarn; shorter staple lengths will provide a ‘hairier’ outcome, whereas longer ones will give a smoother end result.
A filament fibre is a continuous, or near-continuous, length of fibre that is used to make the final result. Silk is the most common natural filament fibre, however, most synthetic fibres are created in the form of filament fibres. If you cut a filament fibre into individual lengths, it will become a staple fibre.
Week 5 Reflection:
Week 6
Vivocity Retail Research
What is FILA?
Originally founded by Ettore and Giansevero Fila in 1911 in Coggiola, near Biella, Italy, Fila is now a South Korean-owned athleisure brand headquartered in Seoul since Fila Korea acquired the brand in 2007 and launched its initial public offering (IPO) on the Korea Exchange in September 2010.
Week 7
Natural & Synthetic Dyes
Week 9
Traditional Fabrics
Week 10
Fabric Finishes
Week 13
Fabric Care Labels